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Jeolla Food Tour

Yeongsangang Bike Path

Known for its culinary heritage, the Jeolla Provinces (North and South) are home to some of the country’s most iconic dishes and vibrant food streets. From traditional noodle soups in Damyang to grilled tteokgalbi in Gwangju and fermented skate in Naju, each stop provides a unique taste of local culture.

Damyang Noodle Street

Damyang Noodle Street (담양국수거리; map), nestled along the Yeongsan River, is famous for its naengmyeon (cold noodle soup; 냉면) and anchovy-based hot broth noodles (myeolchi guksu). Each restaurant along the street puts its own twist on these beloved dishes.

Outdoor picnic tables line the street. They offer visitors a relaxed atmosphere to savor their meals while admiring the nearby river and greenery. The area’s signature menu items, such as bibim guksu (spicy mixed noodles; 비빔국수) and myeolchi guksu (멸치국수), are often accompanied by hearty sides like crispy seafood pancakes (haemul pajeon; 해물파전). Seasonal variations, such as chilled yeolmu guksu (열무국수) featuring radish leave.

Damyang Noodle Street is located near major attractions like Juknokwon Bamboo Forest and Gwanbangjerim Forest, making it a great stop for refueling after sightseeing or cycling. Many eateries cater to groups with combination sets that include generous portions of noodles, side dishes, and shared appetizers at budget-friendly prices.

Asian Food Culture Street

Asian Food Culture Street (아시아음식문화거리; map) in Gwangju City’s Dong District showcases culinary traditions from across Asia. Developed in 2014 as part of an initiative to establish Gwangju as a cultural hub, the street is located near the Asian Culture Center.

The street features a variety of restaurants representing cuisines from countries such as India, Taiwan, Japan, the Philippines, and Vietnam. In addition to these international flavors, the area highlights local specialties, including famous dishes from the Jeolla region like tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties; 떡갈비) and boribap (barley rice; 보리밥).

Seasonal food festivals, such as the Asia Food Festival held during warmer months, invite locals and tourists to experience diverse culinary offerings alongside cultural performances and workshops.

While its initial momentum slowed, Asian Food Culture Street remains an interesting stop for visitors exploring Gwangju’s global and regional food culture. Efforts are underway to revitalize the area with improved amenities and creative lighting installations.

For travelers passing through or cycling along nearby routes, this destination provides a flavorful detour to explore the many layers of Asian cuisine.

Songjeong Tteokgalbi Street

Songjeong Tteokgalbi Street (송정떡갈비; map) is located near Gwangju Songjeong Station (광주송정; map). A destination for those seeking traditional Korean flavors, the street is known for its namesake dish, tteokgalbi (떡갈비; grilled patty of minced beef and pork).

The area is steeped in history, with its roots tracing back to the 1950s when a local cook, Choi Cheo-ja, began serving tteokgalbi as an affordable and accessible dish for market-goers. Today, it remains a culinary staple in Gwangju.

What sets Songjeong-style tteokgalbi apart is its use of both beef and pork, mixed with vegetables and seasoning, then grilled over charcoal. The result is a flavorful and tender patty, enhanced by the smoky aroma of the grill.

Many restaurants on the street also serve traditional accompaniments like a clear bone soup, spicy kimchi, and fresh leafy greens for wrapping the tteokgalbi. Popular pairings include bibimbap or a bowl of cold noodles.

The street features a mix of long-standing establishments, some with over 40 years of history. Signature restaurants like Songjeong Tteokgalbi 1-Ho (송정떡갈비 1호점; map), known for its generous portions and classic recipes, continue to draw crowds. Visitors can enjoy a dining experience with walls adorned with photos and autographs of local celebrities who’ve dined there.

Hoe Street in Daein Market

Daein Market (대인시장; map), established in 1959, is located in the heart of Gwangju’s Dong District and home to the well-known Hoe Street. This section of the market specializes in hoe, or sliced raw fish.

Hoe Street is known for its fresh offerings sourced directly from the nearby southwestern coast. Vendors and small restaurants line the street, serving dishes such as hoe platters, spicy hoe salad (hoe-muchim), and accompaniments like clear fish soup and seasonal vegetables.

The dishes are prepared to highlight the natural flavors of the fish and are served with a variety of dipping sauces, including soy sauce with wasabi and cho-gochujang (a sweet and tangy red chili paste).

This corner of the market offers an authentic Korean seafood experience, where customers can enjoy their meals in informal settings with communal tables. The lively atmosphere is complemented by the surrounding market’s charm, where traditional ingredients and locally made goods are sold.

Daein Market is also known for its recent transformations. Through initiatives like the Gwangju Biennale’s Bokdeokbang Project, the market has incorporated art studios, galleries, and workshops into its stores, revitalizing the market and making it a popular destination.

Hoe Street is particularly busy during the evening, when Daein’s night market comes alive. Visitors can pair their seafood with other street foods and enjoy cultural performances.

Naju Gomtang Street

Naju Gomtang Street (나주곰탕거리; map) is located near the historic Geumseong Pavilion (금성관; map), a prominent landmark in Naju City. This culinary hub is dedicated to the city’s signature dish, gomtang (곰탕), a savory and clear beef soup made with carefully simmered cuts of beef and bone marrow. The dish traces its origins back to the Japanese occupation era, when Naju was held as a bustling port and beef canning factory.

Gomtang became a staple for locals due to the availability of beef byproducts left over from the canning process. This tradition has carried on for over a century, with many of the city’s restaurants serving recipes perfected through generations.

Today, Naju Gomtang Street is home to some of the oldest and most revered gomtang establishments in Korea.

One of the most notable stops on the street is Hayanjib (하얀집; map), a restaurant with over 100 years of history. Established in 1910, Hayanjib has been passed down through four generations, maintaining its reputation and serving a simple menu focused on gomtang, featuring a clear and flavorful broth accompanied by tender beef cuts, rice, and traditional side dishes like kimchi and kkakdugi (radish kimchi).

Other prominent establishments include Nampyeong Halmaejip (남평할매집; map), known for its traditional preparation methods, and Hanokjib (한옥집; map), which serves its gomtang in a picturesque hanok-style setting. Each restaurant offers subtle variations in flavor and presentation, making the street a must-visit for gomtang enthusiasts.

In addition to its culinary dishes, the area around Naju Gomtang Street is steeped in history. Visitors can explore the nearby Geumseong Pavilion (금성관; map), the historic guesthouse for government officials, or take a stroll through the remnants of Naju’s ancient city walls.

Hongeo Street

Venture to the south end of downtown Naju City and you’ll find Hongeo Street (홍어의거리; map) along the Yeongsan River. There you can try the city’s speciality, fermented skate (stingray), aka Hongeo-hoe (홍어회). Be warned, the hongeo-hoe’s smell is said to remind customers of a septic tank.

History

The tradition of fermenting skate dates back to the era when fishing boats traveled from the islands of the Yellow Sea to the inland Yeongsan Port, following the Yeongsan River. The journey, lasting several days, allowed the skate to naturally ferment in transit, resulting in its signature tangy and pungent flavor. This unique preservation method made hongeo a staple in the region.

The dish gained additional recognition during the Joseon Dynasty (1392 ~ 1910), as chronicled in Jasan Eobo (자산어보) by Jeong Yak-jeon, who noted the popularity of fermented skate paired with rice wine (makgeolli). Over time, Yeongsanpo became synonymous with hongeo, earning it the nickname “Hongeo Capital of Korea.”

Hongeo Street

Hongeo Street is lined with restaurants and markets offering a variety of hongeo dishes. Options include:

  • Hongeo-hoe (raw fermented skate): Sliced skate served with vinegared red pepper paste.
  • Hongeo Samhap: A trio of fermented skate, boiled pork, and aged kimchi, often enjoyed with makgeolli.
  • Hongeo Tang: Skate soup flavored with soybean paste and local herbs.
  • Hongeo Jeon: Pan-fried skate pancakes.

The area is also home to many wholesale fish markets where visitors can purchase fermented skate to take home.

Visiting Yeongsan Port

The street maintains its traditional charm, with signs of its history as a bustling port town in the surrounding architecture. Nearby attractions include the Yeongsan River promenade, the Yeongsan Port Lighthouse, and remnants of the old inland harbor.

Hongeo is an acquired taste, with its strong smell and sharp flavor dividing opinions. However, for those willing to embrace the challenge, Hongeo Street provides an authentic culinary adventure that captures the spirit of Jeolla cuisine.