Yeongsan Port
Yeongsan Port (영산포구; map), nestled along the Yeongsan River in downtown Naju City is Korea’s only inland harbor. Once serving as a bustling trade center, connecting the fertile plains of the Naju region to the Yellow Sea and beyond, the port was a vital artery for transporting rice, fish, seaweed, and other goods.
Though its role as a hub for trade faded with the introduction of trains, cars and airplanes, Yeongsan Port today maintains its legacy as a vibrant landmark with a waterside lighthouse, traditional Hwangpo Sailboats tours, and nearby restaurants serving up the area’s famed fermented skate (stingray).
History
During the Joseon Dynasty, Yeongsan Port served as a logistical hub, serving as the site to collect taxes and distribute agricultural goods in the Honam Region. The port sat at a key juncture along the vital transportation network of the Yeongsan River, where goods like rice and other cash crops flowed down the waterway.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Yeongsan Port entered a new phase. It surged in importance during the Japanese occupation. The fertile Naju Plains became a primary target for Japan’s agricultural extraction policies, with the port acting as a conduit for exporting rice and other staples. The Japanese improved infrastructure, building warehouses and transport systems in Naju. However, this transformation became a symbol of how Japan extracted Korea’s resources while providing little to no benefits to the local community.
Following Korea’s liberation in 1945, Yeongsan Port declined with the rise of rail and road transport in the mid-20th century, which shifted trade away from river navigation. The construction of the Yeongsan River Estuary Bank in the 1970s, which blocked the mouth of the Yeongsan River from the Yellow Sea, marked the end of the port as a trade hub.
While no longer a bustling harbor, Naju City preserved the port’s inland lighthouse and landing, while also installing informational signs and a dock from which visitors can tour the area on recreated Goryeo-era Hwangpo Sailboats.
Yeongsan Port Lighthouse
Yeongsan Port is home to Yeongsan Port Lighthouse (영산포 등대; map), Korea’s only inland lighthouse. Constructed in 1915 during the Japanese colonial period, it was built to aid vessels navigating the inland waterways of the Yeongsan River and to monitor water levels.
(If you glance at the sides of the lighthouse, you’ll see markings used to measure the height of the river during flooding.)
The lighthouse played a pivotal role in the port’s operation, ensuring that goods such as rice, fish, and seaweed could be transported safely and efficiently downstream to the Yellow Sea.
While its primary function ended in 1989, Naju City preserved and designated the lighthouse as a cultural heritage site.
Visitors today can view the lighthouse from the banks of the Yeongsan River or climb down to the landing where it stands.
Hwangpo Sailboats
The Hwangpo Sailboats (황포돛배; map), with their distinctive yellow sails, were a vital part of the Yeongsan River‘s trading network during the Goryeo Dynasty. These traditional vessels carried rice and freshwater fish from the fertile lands of Naju downriver to the Yellow Sea, where they hit trade routes along the Yellow Sea. The sailboats were designed to navigate the river’s currents, relying on wind and tidal flows to traverse the waterway.
In modern times, Naju revived these iconic boats, allowing visitors to experience the river’s historical significance firsthand. The recreated Hwangpo sailboats offer 50-minute tours along the Yeongsan River. During these trips, passengers can enjoy the sights of the surrounding landscape, including the Yeongsan River’s waters and nearby farmlands.
Hongeo Street
South of Yeongsan Port lies Hongeo Street (홍어의거리; map), renowned for its signature dish, hongeo-hoe, or fermented skate (stingray). Famous for its sharp ammonia-rich aroma—often likened to that of a septic tank—is not for the faint of heart. Despite its polarizing smell, hongeo-hoe holds a special place in Korea’s culinary heritage, particularly in Naju, where it is a point of local pride.
Hongeo Street is lined with restaurants and shops that specialize in preparing and serving hongeo-hoe. The fermentation process, which gives the skate its unique flavor and aroma, has been honed over centuries. Traditionally, skates were transported from coastal waters to inland regions like Naju, naturally fermenting during the long journey. This unintentional discovery became a celebrated method, transforming the skate into a staple for special occasions and local feasts.
Visitors to Hongeo Street can enjoy a variety of hongeo dishes, including hongeo-hoe served with samhap, a combination of fermented skate, pork belly, and aged kimchi—a trio designed to balance flavors and textures.
While the experience of eating fermented skate is an acquired one, it offers a window into the cultural and historical fabric of the region.
Beyond the meals, the street serves as a hub of history and tradition, attracting both food enthusiasts and curious travelers.
Japanese Colonial-Era Warehouses
Venture past Hongeo Street and find narrow alleys lined with Japanese-style warehouses. Constructed during the early 20th century, these buildings were central to Japan’s exploitation of Korea. The warehouses stored goods such as rice and other staples from the fertile Naju Plains, which were then transported via the Yeongsan River for export to Japan.
The architecture of these warehouses include thick walls and robust wooden beams built for heavy storage. Today, many have been repurposed into local businesses, galleries, and cafes, or fallen into disrepair.
